While this install guide is pretty primitive, it gets the job done. Listed is a quick summation and snags you might run into. Things you will need:
- Banding tool. Parts listed on guide. I believe the GENERAL ones are rebuildable, but I would confirm this
- Knowlege on rebuilding CV’s. I have an in depth guide if needed, but most installers are aware therefore this information is not included.
- The axle part #’s may be reversed on the engraving (RCV swapped the Part #’s, but they should be tagged correctly. ) Longer end to knuckle = differential side. Axles should be tagged “Front & Rear”
- Reservoir mounting is tricky. Due to limited bed space and holes you may get around to mounting underneath. We had to take a hot pin and puncture a small hole. Mounting hardware is not included for this reason. We simply use hose clamps and black heat shrink available through Mc. Master Car. I have seen a couple customers use Axia Clamps and self tappers into the bottom of the bed frame rails. Also looked very clean.
- Make sure who ever powders plugs the Tube mounts and balljoint billets. File the pilots for any tolerance build up before attempting to install. Since we are installing it, there should be plugs placed in the billet areas itself, but double check there is no build up in the corners where the circlip needs to seat.
- IMPORTANT : Press balljoints in gradually. Tolerances are very tight on our Arms. If it is not going in smoothly and perfectly straight back out and take another run. Too many times Ive seen customers install them in crooked from being in a hurry. They remove material and allow slop in the balljoint receiver. Only way to eliminate this would be to Green Loctite balljoints or replace the arm if this happens.
- IMPORTANT: Do not forget to Clearance/ relieve the front lower arms to allow full travel and articulation. If this is not done, you will be having a great time learning how to install the front end twice. It’s very minimal, but required to allow full drop out of arms.
- Don’t bother with the alignment until the car is scrubbed. It will sit like a high lifter car when first of the lift. Drive it around the block, make some turns and allow it to settle. Then we can talk preload , and finally Alignment after everything else is set.
- The shocks will deceive you. They are an 8” stroke shock limited and equipped with a big rubber bump. Optimally we want your car to be sitting in 50-60% of the shock range for proper hydraulics. This means when the car is sitting static at ride height we want appx. 3.5 - 3.75” of shock shaft showing including the rubber bump. That bump compresses down to an 1/8” of an inch at full compression so while it will look like only an inch of shock shaft is showing, hold to these measurements and you will be much happier with the overall performance of the car.
- 10MM-12MM Shock Bolt ID’s - We had a run of General shocks that went out with 10MM misalignments for one of the lower shock rod ends. It would only be on the lower mount points. I requested that king confirm this and send correct spacers in the box if needed, but they never came back with a confirmation. I also have a handful here if I need to bring them to ship them. You should be good, but worth double checking before you are down to the wire on installation.
- When all is done alignment will want to be set at 1/8” toe out. The simplest way to measure this is the tire seam from front side of tires (total width) in comparison the the back. Do this it ride height when suspension is already settled as toe will change throughout the cycle of the car.
- Be Aware : If you have a vehicle with “Turf Mode” one of the tires is slightly kicked out per Polaris’ Design. This is not a fixture issue or fitment problem on HCR’s end. It will obviously be exaggerated going wider and adding bigger tires.
- Brake Line T Block in Rear - A Brake line for the passenger side will be provided. All other brake lines will be reused. I believe all but one corner can be re-routed without being uninstalled and having to be bled. I have had 2 customers so far in the entirety of selling this kit where the brake line used on the driver side in to the T block was too short. This was a weird deal with Polaris as they reordered the same line and it showed up 3” longer and the length it was supposed to be. Just giving you insight to any possible things you may run into during install.
- The Crush sleeves need to be greased. The Outer Delrin Bushings into the tube ends do not. We do not supply zerk fitting taps into the tubing as you should only need to re-grease during regular maintenance cycles. You are welcome to add these if you feel they are necessary.
- Hand tighten everything first allowing everything to line up, then go through, Red Loctite, and torque everything down to factory Specs.
