HCR Is dedicated to providing the best customer service possible. If there is something that we can help with, please call 435-865-9280 or email firstname.lastname@example.org and an HCR rep will be happy to help!
Before calling or emailing have you checked our install section and instructions? Have you checked our FAQ at the bottom of the page? If so, and you still need assistance please Contact us so we can get you taken care of.
Please allow up to 1 business day if an e-mail has been sent or voicemail has been left. This allows us to prepare any needed documents, questions and / or gather any ground work necessary to provide the best help possible. Technical assistance will be addressed in the order it is received. Thank you in advance for your patience.
Please Have the following Prepared before you call in:
- Order / Invoice # or origin
- Year / Make / Model of the vehicle
- If unit was purchased New or Used
I didn't receive any instructions. Where can I find them?
HCR provides some step-by-step instructions as each build should be done by a professional mechanic. HCR does however provide a basic install guide on routing photos, tips, specs, and call outs for kits that don't have a specific install guide. These guides are located in the hardware box included with your kit. If you would like to see a color copy or download, the install guides can be found here:
If you think you may be missing hardware, please open ALL of your boxes/packaging to check for "hardware" box before calling in. The hardware box is typically in a trailing arm box and includes the instructions, brake line, bushings/crush sleeves, bolt and other misc hardware needed for install.
Due to Pricing and inventory HCR traditionally sells complete hardware kits. If you are looking for individual hardware or parts requests, please fill out (copy and paste) the following information into an email: email@example.com. Once received, this information will be inputted into our system and a rep will contact you to complete and verify Order information. This allows HCR provide order accuracy in a timely matter. If you are unsure of needed Parts or quantities, these items and their quantities are listed in the install section.
VEHICLE INFO: (YEAR/ MAKE/ MODEL/ SEAT):
PARTS TO ORDER / INQUIRING:
Don't see what you are looking for? Inquire here:
Individual parts orders will not be accepted without this information to confirm order accuracy. HCR thanks you in advance for your cooperation with this.
Heims: If you need to order replacement heims/ rod ends, please confirm the following as we have made hardware changes throughout the years:
SIZE: 1/2-20 or 5/8-18
DIRECTION: Right handed or left handed?
DUNER VS DUALSPORT
The Duner kits look really well designed. The description states "just as strong with out the added weight". What do you mean by this and which kit is better for my application?
The answer is YES to both of those questions / comments. While both designs, the Duner and Dualsport, are technically the same design, and both are exponentially stronger than stock, the dual sport is marginally stronger since they are the same material, design, and internal structure only the Dualsport has more material. Once could argue the strength to weight ratio may allow the Duner to offer a higher strength to weight ratio, but in pure survival / crush dummy circumstance, the Dualsport would be at the top of the curve. The bottom of the dual sport also acts as a natural bash plate while the Duner has more leading edges. if you are questioning the strength of the Duner simply looks at the hands on Testing TMW did in the photo posting above and you will become a believer!
Please keep in mind, your shocks will need a final fine tune after installation. If you are not sure on setup, or provided specifications on the instructions or website, please have the following ready when you call or e-mail:
A jack or lift, measuring tape, and current information listed below:
- Front and Rear Ground Clearance - measured from the counterpoint of chassis to the ground
- Tire Size / PSI
- Spring Rates and Lengths. If Springs are Blue, Please Record white codes on Springs
- Make, Model, Year, 2 or 4 Seat,
- Applicable Aftermarket Modifications i.e. HD sway bars, motor work, spare tire, etc.
"Is a gusset kit required to run an HCR kit?"
No, but it is recommended. A gusset kit is a double tab weld on system that strengthens the mount points on your chassis. This can be used for either preventative maintenance or repair. Many customers like to strengthen their frame while it is a part since they are strengthening the suspension and the teardown is already done. A gusset kit can also repair any egged or enlarged holes due to lose or failed bolts. Other prefer a "get out jail free card" and will not install the gusset it initially. Accidents happen and when they do, a gusset kit may be able to help fix any lost frame integrity or ripped bolt holes from an impacted arm.
TIE RODS / BALL JOINTS
"HCR makes a great kit! Why is it you only provide tie rod extensions?"
We like to have a weak link. If you have bent or broke a tie rod, more than likely you can remember exactly where you were when it happened. Hitting a berm too quickly, using the sand wash as a driver correction or hitting that hidden witches eye. While a bent tie rod is a nuisance, a broken steering rack or bent spindle can ruin your weekend. We prefer to keep the tie rod a week link and carry a spare, but we do offer Assault Heavy Duty replacement tie rods if you do chose to upgrade.
We at HCR have similar thoughts about ball joints . With up to 21+ inches of travel on kits you will not see bottoming out and compound leverage causing failures. A balljoint will shear when impacted as it is the weak link but can be quickly and cost effectively replaced. HCR does offer 2 upgrades from factory balljoints: 7/8 Uniball Setup and RCV 300 M adjustable and Keller rebuildable ball joints. While a spherical bearing and pin provide a stronger setup compared to a factory Balljoints it also compromises steering and requires maintenance. For Open wheel , short course style racing we feel this is a necessity, but components must constantly be checked and replaced or failure can occur. If you are looking for a stronger alternative to factory, but less maintenance the RCV Balljoints and Keller Balljoints are a great option. These Balljoints have proven to be equal strength to a Uniball option with minimal maintenance .
AXLES & CV'S
"I broke an axle / CV. Is it under warranty? Why did it break? Do you have a stronger solution?
All Axle bars are sold individually and available through HCR. Factory CV's are used on all kits. If you need to replace a broken CV order a complete half shaft from your local dealership or online. Many CV's are not available for individual purchase.
HCR offers a 6 month warranty on any RCV axle bar with first incident. Please email a photo of the broken axle to SALES@HCRRACING.COM so we can assess the problem and provide an in house solution. If you have a Summer Brothers Axle, Summers Brothers handles all warranties direct. They can be reached at: (909) 395-5555.
If you did happen to break an axle, we would like to identify why so we can prevent this issue from re-occuring. Please read below for common axle/ CV issues and causes of failure:
If you are worried your axle may be binding or interfering the first thing to check would be any bind. You can check this by putting your unit on a lift, placing it neutral, and rotating the tires. The Axles / CV's should not bind and rotate freely when suspension is at full extension. When rotating the tires there should be no grinding or clicking. If you do happen to notice any interference it may be one of the following:
Axles may be reversed or front and rear axles may be mixed up. Please check part numbers in reference to the install section and confirm you have the correct axle in the correct position. Some axles have the same spline count on either side so backwards installation is a possibility. There is a difference in length measurement from the end of the axle bar to the boot knuckle depending on the side. The longer side should be inserted in the differential side. If the axle is reversed, the axle may not be dropping out properly causing bind or interference.
If front and rear axles are mixed up, the axle could be the wrong length either causing bind, or the axle to pull out of the differential. The axle itself may be too long. If you suspect this is the case, please call or email with length of only the axle bar and HCR can confirm accuracy.
All HCR Long travel kits are designed to keep geometry and tolerances as close to the factory as possible. Though there are many cost effective half shafts available in the market, we have yet to find a quality compared to the OEM. If you have replaced a factory half shaft with an import you may run into the following problems
- The Complete 1/2 shaft being the wrong length with new , extended axle
- Binding or excessive play in the axle due to aftermarket axle having different specs
- Fitment or interference due to different diameter, plunge and design.
- The half shaft may fall out of the differential due to different plunge angles
- The half shaft may have a generic inner bar with generic splines. These may not be the same as factory and will not be compatible.
The final and most uncommon issue of axle bind is if the shocks were built out of spec. This could be an oversight from the Factory, or spacers were removed during a tuning, service, or rebuild. This issue is most commonly found in used kits purchased by a third party. Knowing the history of your suspension kit may help pinpoint these problems. If you think this may be a problem, Please call HCR with your extended eye to eye lengths to confirm accuracy.
If you yourself have crashed/wrecked your vehicle or purchased a vehicle that may have been crashed CV and axle issues can become a problem. If the frame has been moved/ altered during impact or the differential has shifted, a re-occurring problem may arise. Easiest way to check if everything is still aligned from factory would be to measure hub to hub on driver's side and compare that measurement to passenger side. These measurements should be the same. Check reference point measurements on the differential as well confirm they are equidistant. If there differential has shifted even a minimal amount it can cause interference and alignment issues.
When you max out the steering to the left or right until it stops, it stops because you are at the CV limit. The CV is what you are putting pressure against when you keep trying to turn past the stop. Anything past 85% turn the CV cage is open and exposed allow the cage to "POP" . . . Avoid turning in 4WD on the pavement. Always use 2 Wheel Drive while on concrete/ pavement and avoid making tight, high speed turns.
Unfortunately UTV's are not controllable in the air like an ATV or dirt bike. When being on the gas when landing, the tire lands at a different speed causing the torque to twist the axle and eventually sheer or shred a CV. This is also the number one cause of broken rear axles.
CV HEAT / SEIZING
CV’s can get too hot and seize. This can happen if you are simply pushing the vehicle for a hard and extended period of time or if your CV's need to be maintained and repacked. If you are properly maintaining CV's and incurring heat issues HCR suggests running redline synthetic grease. This grease can survive a higher heat and does not break down as quickly. Synthetic grease is recommended on all Race Cars and high horsepower cars.
When replacing the joints, its very important to use “CV” grease only and the right amount. Too much and too less is not good.
2 WHEEL DRIVE
Running in 2WD places more stress on the axles being used. 2 wheel drive doubles your chances of breaking an axle. HCR does not recommend running 2WD unless on Pavement. 4 Wheel Drive allows pushing and pulling opposed to all "push". With Polaris' especially, 4 Wheel Drive is only live on demand. With that being said: 4WD on pavement will cause an axle or CV failure. even just 1 pavement donut can cause an axle failure later when “you were just driving down the road”
PREVIOUS BROKEN AXLE
If you have one broken rear axle. DO NOT drive with 3 axles. This will place all the torque / pressure to opposing side and will cause failure .This failure may happen immediately or delayed. It is usually delayed causing the driver confusion on what caused the axle to fail. This is usually seen as a situation where failure will occur when you were “just driving down the road”. The delayed fatigue on the axle may finally give out when you are driving under minimal load (i.e. slight incline) and the Axle will "POP" and give.
A power hop can happen by accelerating (under load) without the wheel straight, or this can be mashing through the whoops and your tire comes off the ground and lands at the next whoop. Similar scenario to jumping your car and landing on the gas.
Any unit running a 30” tire or larger is putting excessive pressure on the axle trying to rotate the tire. These customers are more susceptible to broken axles and CV's. A heavy duty alternative may be necessary.
hitting rocks at speed or getting hung up on a rock, stump, or obstacle leaves the axle vulnerable. Once an axle is damaged/ nicked it has a weak point. Pressure will concentrate to a damaged portion until failure. Similar to a windshield rock chip eventually cracking the entire window. An unnoticed nick or chip can lead to eventual axles failure without any obvious reason.
High horsepower cars are suggested to run with RCV Pro Series completes. The axle bar and CV are not meant to hold that kind of horsepower and torque.